Susques - Huancar - Pastos Chicos (Ruta 40)

 Ruta40 by bicycle: cycling Argentinas Andes from Susques to Pastos Chicos

Before we continue our ride, we take a day off to acclimatize to the thin air and look aroundin Susques. Worth mentioning is the church Iglesia de Nuestra Señora de Belén de Susques, built in 1598, with a thatched roof and a cactus wood roof structure. And this is already the full list of all attractions Susques offers. There is nothing more in Susques: even gasoline is not available in Susques this night, which encourages some motorized guests we meet to go back into the car and go ahead. Ruta 52 leads from Susques over the Paso de Jama to Chile and is the only asphalt road between Argentina and Chile north of Mendoza. The lack of availability of gasoline is notable. 

Since we were not happy with our accommodation in Susques last night, we choose the Hotel El Unquillar outside of Susques for our second night in Susques. Here we find a room with private bathroom, friendly staff, a fireplace and something to eat all under one roof. A combination we couldn't find inside Susques.     

In Susques we leave the Ruta 52. From today on we follow the legendary Ruta 40. While Ruta 40 starts in the north of Argentina at the border with Bolivia, we start the Ruta 40 adventure a few kilometers south of Susques. At first, Ruta 52 and Ruta 40, which lead to Chile, run parallel and the road is asphalted. 

But that will soon change: from the point where Ruta 40 branches off to the south, the asphalt section is over. From here, progress is hard work. The road condition changes every few miles: sometimes corrugated washbord, sometimes sand, sometimes gravel. The following applies throughout: cycling is exhausting, but possible! Furthermore, the road is planed into the terrain without removing hills or filling valleys. So the road is constantly going uphill or downhill. Reminds me to the top of the world highway in Alaska.  

Unfortunately, the speed downhill is not much higher than uphill, the surface does not allow for that. The landscape here is rather barren and there is not much vegetation to look to. 

In some places water flows from the mountains into the Rio Pastos Chicos, which runs to our left most of the time. If the water flows quickly, the passage is not a problem. Shallow, slow-flowing watercourses are unfavorable because they are icy on the edges. 

Up here on the Altiplano you can feel the vastness of the landscape. 

After 21 km / 13 miles we reach the village of Huancar. The place can be seen from afar, but the last mile takes an incredibly long time due to the bad road. The thin air doesn't make it any easier for us. 

In Huancar we buy some cookies and drinks in a small shop and take a break in the square in front of the church. Even if the sky looks blus on the photo, it is very windy, the weather forecast for today predicts a wind speed of 95 km/h or 60 mph.

Shortly behind Huncar there is a steep climb. It's only 50 meters in altitude gain, but it seems a lot more up here above 3600m. After that, Ruta 40 is almost flat.

On the way we pass some sand dunes. In these areas it becomes obvious that the Ruta 40 is regularly maintained. I gues, these sections are planed down to a leveled surface with a grader about every 6 weeks or so.   

On the Altiplano, the Ruta 40 offers cyclists a big plus: car traffic is easy. There is exactly one car coming towards us between Susques and Pastos Chicos. Heavy traffic does not happen at all. 

We cycle slowly but steadily towards the south. The weather is pleasant today: around midday the temperature exceeds 10°C. However, the strong wind remains.  

We reach Pastos Chicos in the early afternoon. The village is located 1.5 km / 1 mile east of Ruta 40 at an altitude of 3820m. Attention: The town of Pastos Chicos should not be confused with the hotel of the same name outside Susques! Coming from the north, we find accommodation in one of the first houses in the village and get a room with two beds and a shared shower in the courtyard. If looking for accommodation here, it's best to ask for Luis.